Tourists are now following in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, and the British Raj, taking a trip along the legendary Khyber pass .Today, the human cargo are tourists, out to experience one of the world's best railway journeys. Surrounded by the mountain shadows, the railway cuts through amazing rocky inclines. The pass still looks like and indeed is a wild frontier, existing largely beyond the laws of Pakistan. When the train is not running, an army of smugglers can be seen marching down the track carrying TVs, stereos, drugs and guns to trade in Peshawar. The Khyber Pass Steam Safari rides under the protection of local militias, out to spot passing Pashtun tribesman and smugglers taking potshots at the train. The Pashtun who live here still live and die by their ancient code of honour.